Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and lively culinary scene," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to learn these narratives and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
